It’s been over 2 and a half months since we’ve been in Bali now, and though I wish I could say I’ve gotten as good as some of these guys at surfing, real progress is often slower than we would like.
We had a couple and their baby stay at our villa for about a week, and he’s an avid surfer so I went out with him a couple times to some spots with some really nice breaks. The thing with that is, just because you paddle out into these big waves with confidence, doesn’t necessarily mean you’re ready for what they throw at you.
After being pounded and thrown around by some monster waves, the message of humility was received loud and clear. A deep respect for the power of the ocean is needed, and a massive wipeout from a huge wave aiding me in that remembering.
Sometimes, you have to let the natural progression of time and practice unfold for your skills to improve, and no amount of force can quicken that process. For the rest of the day I was content photographing the amazing surfers that populated the famous break at Keramas Beach.
This guy was rippin it with authority.
Catching a little Tube!
This guy had powerful and aggressive style, and he looked like he might kick your ass if you said otherwise.
This guy’s airs were off the charts!
The journey to becoming a rad surfer, only begins when you are willing to take the first step..
When all else fails, you can always get naked and play on the beach!
Getting good at surfing means you never give up, even when the sun starts to go down.
It’s always important to take time and reflect on how far you’ve come…
And never be discouraged by imperfection, cracks are how the light gets in!
And when the last wave has been rode, its good to give thanks and appreciate how awesome life is, in all its forms.
Then its time to enjoy a cold beverage, spend some quality with the ones who mean the most to you, and soak in a beautiful sunset.
Thats why Life is like a Beach. Sometimes you get rained on, or get pounded by waves. Sometimes it feels like your a little out of sync, or just can’t catch a break. But amidst all of that there is meaning,beauty, and love weaved through the rolling of the waves that makes it all worth it.
Stay Stoked, Stay Inspired!
All photos copyright of Brandon Nadeau Photography